Bad Baking Ideas

This weekend I had nothing in particular planned so I decided to bake. This was decidedly a bad idea. As a result of this decision I had flat heavy cinnamon buns. Fortunately they were very sweet (thanks to the half a tonne of brown sugar the recipe called for).

In Bolivia, as long as its sweet, it will pretty much get eaten. They love sweet. Pop, candy, over ripe bananas, you name it. If its sweet, they eat it. On top of that, cinnamon buns are bready (or at least they are supposed to be) so that was another point in their favor. Bolivians like bread. Aside from potatoes, its probably one of the most consumed things here. On every street corner there is bread.

As with everything here though, its a bit different. Bread isn't bought in loafs, buns are most common. There are different types as well. You can get hamburger buns which are not used for hamburgers. These are the most like what we have in Canada. Then there are other little buns that are very hard; sort of like bread that's been left out for a few days. Then there is mariqueta. This is the most common and most popular. They are like fat hot dog buns with a hard crust. But you can't have bread without knowing how to eat it.

So how to eat bread in Bolivia. Here's the kicker, you pretty much only eat the crust. Yes, I know, that's completely crazy. You cut the bread open, or in more informal settings just break it open with your hands, and then pull out the middle (la miga). I have asked why and no one seems to be able to give me a better answer than 'so you can put more in it'. And guess what they put in it, more sweet stuff like sweetened condensed milk or jam.

I know! I'm as shocked as you are. Why on earth would you take out the good stuff and just eat the crust. I was very confused at first because I would find little bits of what looked like parmesano regiano cheese in the morning and I couldn't figure out where it came from because they don't have parmesan cheese here. It took me a little while to figure out that it was the bits of bread, balled up from the night before that had been thrown away.

Anyway, to make a long story short. I can't bake here. Tops of mountains are not compatible with my baking skills, unless I try cookies. Mayby cookies would work. They don't rise, they're sweet and they are sort of crunchy.

Creature Comforts

I guess when you first go to a new country there are a lot of things you over look. Not that you necessarily take them for granted but they just don't stand out because you've seen them in pictures or you haven't had time to absorb everything. After being in Bolivia for several weeks things are starting to poke their heads out and say "hey, over here. Look at me"! Thanks to friends, family and a camera here are some basic things about that have stood out so far.

Everything builds on something else in a society so if you take a look at houses for instance, they are very different. Apartment buildings here don't go much higher than 10 stories, most are about 4 or 5. I haven't been in one yet that has an elevator so you can imagine walking up that many flights with your groceries and I don't even want to imagine moving. That might be why once people move into a place they don't want to move out again. It's not uncommon for people to spend most, if not all of their married life in the same apartment.

Buildings are mostly a combination of brick and concrete. Roofs are often corrugated metal. Yes the roofs leak when it rains but not as badly as you would think. Many houses have washing machines but don't use them. Most of the laundry is done by hand (I miss a wash machine). Houses have rooftop terraces for drying the laundry. Because La Paz gets a lot of sun, these are also places to relax.

Hot water here is a luxury. Because gas is bought in tanks like you would buy for a barbeque or to go camping, hot water is not available throughout the day and you have to turn on the hot water tank about 15 - 20 minutes before you take a shower so its not freezing cold. Even most of the hotels don't have hot water all day long. Dishes are washed with hot water from the kettle.

Houses also don't have heating. I'm not talking about central heating, just any kind of heating so bundle up. It's cold in the morning because ventilation in the houses is also just a hole in the wall. Literally, a round hole in the wall of the kitchen and the bathroom serves as a vent.

Once you settle in, its the things you take for granted that start to stick out. When your hands start to get chapped from washing your cloths and you're constantly sniffling because there's no heat you miss the comforts of home. And your friends and family of course!

Gran Poder

Who doesn’t love a party? Who doesn’t love to dress up and dance? Well I certainly can’t say that Bolivians don’t love to. Every weekend so far there has been some kind of party or festival or some excuse to have a good time. This weekend was no exception. This weekend was Gran Poder.

Full name La Fiesta El Señor Jesús del Gran Poder is a huge parade of dancers and bands dressed up in all kinds of costumes from bears to angels to cowboys

to Incas etc. It starts early (I’m talking 7 am) and goes well into the night. It started out as a religious festival in the 1930’s it seems to have morphed into a colourful parade of costumes and Bolivian culture. The Morenada is one of the more popular dances performed with brilliant costumes and skirts of all lengths.

For the participants Gran Poder is a competition with an entrance fee, judges and rules. That does not mean of course that you can’t talk on your cell phone, stop to have a beer or simply have fun while you’re doing your thing. For the spectators, bring your sunscreen, go early to buy your seat, and don’t worry about food because there is lots being sold. Of course a cold beer (cerveza) or pop (refresco) to wash it down is in abundant supply. Ice cream is always a great dessert and there are lots of types to choose from if you want. Jello is also a popular choice here in Bolivia.

So if you find yourself with nothing to do on Gran Poder weekend and your in the vicinity of La Paz I would strongly recommend checking it out. Bring your camera and don't be shy to run up and ask to take a picture.

Time for Um, not so sure?

Time, its an interesting concept and certainly not the same everywhere. Yes you can measure it, stamp it, read it, waste it, save it; but here, what does it really mean? No, seriously; I'm asking you. What does it mean?

It may seem a little odd, and yes Latin America does have a reputation for having its own rules about time but you really have to experience them to see what that means. My guess is the White Rabbit wrote them on his way to the tea party for the Mad Hatter. Only it may not have been tea he was after but something sweet or maybe spicey.

I went to the market this weekend and was told, "Oh, we'll go take a look around and be back by 1". Great, I thought. Lot's of time to do other stuff in the afternoon. Hah! I should know better by now. After walking down rows upon rows of used cars, clothing, food, wiring, wood products, mechanical stuff, and things that I have no idea what they are, it was well past 3. Then we had to get back home. So there's the trying to find transportation rush; this is particularly instersting since whenever 3 or 4 cars line up they all seem to start honking which of course does absolutely nothing to make things move faster since people are getting in and out of the mini buses, it just makes noise. Then there has to be some kind of festival that blocks your way (there seems to be some kind of law about this; Murphy?), and then the walk through the streets back to the house. Around 4pm we were back and no one seemed surprised except me.


The only sure ways to tell time here seem to be morning, afternoon, evening, yesterday, today and tomorrow. Other than that it seems patience and a good book are in order. Any suggestions on the latter?

A day in the life

So life, what's it like in a new country. Well here's a taste of my daily routine.

I get up fairly early, eat breakfast and then head off to work. Work is Monday to Friday so that hasn't changed. I can get to work by mini bus (an interesting method of travel which I have yet to figure out on my own) or walk. I prefer to walk. The roads don't change.



The office is in a different district of town about 20 minutes from where I am living. After walking up and down the hills of La Paz, dodging min busses, cars and motorcycles I finally get to the office. There, its pretty much like working in a small office. The office is in a converted house so it can get a bit cozy sometimes but it's good.

At about noon its time for lunch. Everyone heads home for lunch so its back to dodging cars. Once I'm back at the house the family usually eats together. The family is the centre of Bolivian life so everyone poors out into the streets in the middle of the day to get home; and then back to work after the midday meal. Once we've eaten the main meal of the day it's back to the office and back to work. Work ends in the early evening and then its home or sometimes to a gym.

While walking up and down the hills of La Paz with minimal oxygen is somewhat of a workout, I've learned I'm a bit of a masacist so I joined a local gym with one of the people at the office. Spinning is big here but I prefer running (not safe on the streets), so I use the treadmill.

Once I've thouroughly exhausted myself its back home to crash and then start all over again. The weekends are for catching up on sleep, cleaning and wondering the markets. Its a very busy schedule and very different from the one I usually keep in Canada. Its almost a month since I arrived and I'm still trying to get my head around how different a two cities can be. People, eat, sleep, work, shop, play, travel but they do it so differently.

How to get along at a Bolivian Wedding

After three weeks I feel like I'm starting to get into the rythm of things here; well sort of. This weekend I went to my first party. It was a wedding and everything I've heard about latin weddings turned out to be true along with a few surprises.

Getting ready for the wedding started out just like it does back home. You have to choose what you're going to wear. This is very important! Shoe shopping of course and down here they have shoes in my size (33 which is about a size 3 back home. Yes I have very small feet. So I found shoes that were very difficult to walk in and entirely appropriate and went with my outfit. Next the gift. I was told by my host family not to worry because this can be bought at the door. I was very confused. In Canada the couple registers at a store and then you go and by a gift off the registry list. Not here. There are litterally stores selling things right outside the hall where the reception is being held. So you buy your gift, the shop keeper wraps it for you and you go inside where the somewhat stunned couple and their wedding party are all wearing pendants of a bride and groom in a chapel and are covered in confetti. You are introduced to the entire wedding party (a kiss on the cheek and congratulations) and then you are shown to a table.

Now lets talk about the alcohol. Well, its not just at the table. The drinks are purchased; I think. There is of course beer, liquor and punches that will punch you back if you're not careful. There is no water unless you bring it yourself. You can toast to whaterever you like, within reason and you don't have to wait for the food to come to start drinking. Once the dancing starts don't think you are out of the woods. They bring shots around on the dance floor and if you even look like you might be over the age of about 14 you are expected to drink them. People also bring cups and bottls of beer and punch out and offer them to complete strangers such as myself and then thank you for drinking with them.

Now, onto dancing. Everybody dances. Every body. I was aware of this before I went but I didn't realize that on the first beat the chairs would be pushed back from the tables and by about the 6th beat of the music the dance floor would be almost full. Mother's bring their babies on to the floor and if you can walk you dance. That seems to be the rule. I have to admit I was a little nervous before I went because I have zero latin dancing skills. I didn't have to. There were a few couples who could dance but it was pretty much like a high school dance. Most people had more rythm skills though. If you can step side to side and clap then you're ok (not to be confused with western line dancing).

To sum up, loud music, lots and lots of alcohol, dancing and go with the flow. If you follow those rules, you'll be good at a Bolivian wedding.

Cars and Zebras and Firecrackers Oh My!

One of the first things that strikes you when you wake up dazed and confused in your hotel room on the Prada (the main drag down the centre of La Paz) in the middle of the day after you plane landed at 5:30 in the morning for some unknown reason, is that there is a lot of traffic. This does not go away. Ok well maybe theres a few minutes in the middle of the night say around 3am where theres a bit of a lul, but other than that its pretty constant. And its not just engines, its horns and whistles too. You don't hear any screaching tires, or little voice telling you how many seconds you have to cross the street or a bird telling you where the side walk is if you are visually impaired. The traffic sounds are different. So are the rules. Here is what I have discerned so far (I do not take any responsibility for any harm caused to any person as a result of following these rules, they are only my observations and all laws should be followed).





1. Cars have the right of way. If you are a pedestrian watch out! Running is good although difficult since the streets are mostly cobble stone and not paved so be careful.





2.Honking is a perfectly acceptable way for a motorist to say, "I'm here and coming through". It's not always someone being nasty saying "Get out of my way".





3.If you are going to drive down here, and I strongly recommend you leave that to the locals because seriously, you don't stand a chance, be aggressive. No one will give you an inch. Well maybe an inch but that's about it, don't expect any more.





4. If you do happen to have an accident it is perfectly acceptible to spend any number of minutes yelling at the person you had an accident with while blocking the road to other traffic. Most cars down here have dents and scrapes so expect this to happen. Also make sure your car has good shock absorbers because you will need it. Like I said above, no paved roads (except the autopista but that is really bumpy too).





5. Stopping anywhere seems to be ok, even if it says don't stop here. I have only seen one boot on a car and many more parked in no parking zones.





6. If it seems like chaos it probably is; but then there is a physics rule that explains chaos I'm just not sure what it is so refer to that when you get lost and you should be ok. I'm pretty sure the guys above are part of that chaos theory since the last time I checked Zebras weren't native to the Andean region.





Oh and one last thing. If there is a march or a strike of some kind don't even try to get a mini bus, taxi or drive. It's pointless. You are better off joining the march. The police will even clear a path for you.