Gran Poder

Who doesn’t love a party? Who doesn’t love to dress up and dance? Well I certainly can’t say that Bolivians don’t love to. Every weekend so far there has been some kind of party or festival or some excuse to have a good time. This weekend was no exception. This weekend was Gran Poder.

Full name La Fiesta El Señor Jesús del Gran Poder is a huge parade of dancers and bands dressed up in all kinds of costumes from bears to angels to cowboys

to Incas etc. It starts early (I’m talking 7 am) and goes well into the night. It started out as a religious festival in the 1930’s it seems to have morphed into a colourful parade of costumes and Bolivian culture. The Morenada is one of the more popular dances performed with brilliant costumes and skirts of all lengths.

For the participants Gran Poder is a competition with an entrance fee, judges and rules. That does not mean of course that you can’t talk on your cell phone, stop to have a beer or simply have fun while you’re doing your thing. For the spectators, bring your sunscreen, go early to buy your seat, and don’t worry about food because there is lots being sold. Of course a cold beer (cerveza) or pop (refresco) to wash it down is in abundant supply. Ice cream is always a great dessert and there are lots of types to choose from if you want. Jello is also a popular choice here in Bolivia.

So if you find yourself with nothing to do on Gran Poder weekend and your in the vicinity of La Paz I would strongly recommend checking it out. Bring your camera and don't be shy to run up and ask to take a picture.

Time for Um, not so sure?

Time, its an interesting concept and certainly not the same everywhere. Yes you can measure it, stamp it, read it, waste it, save it; but here, what does it really mean? No, seriously; I'm asking you. What does it mean?

It may seem a little odd, and yes Latin America does have a reputation for having its own rules about time but you really have to experience them to see what that means. My guess is the White Rabbit wrote them on his way to the tea party for the Mad Hatter. Only it may not have been tea he was after but something sweet or maybe spicey.

I went to the market this weekend and was told, "Oh, we'll go take a look around and be back by 1". Great, I thought. Lot's of time to do other stuff in the afternoon. Hah! I should know better by now. After walking down rows upon rows of used cars, clothing, food, wiring, wood products, mechanical stuff, and things that I have no idea what they are, it was well past 3. Then we had to get back home. So there's the trying to find transportation rush; this is particularly instersting since whenever 3 or 4 cars line up they all seem to start honking which of course does absolutely nothing to make things move faster since people are getting in and out of the mini buses, it just makes noise. Then there has to be some kind of festival that blocks your way (there seems to be some kind of law about this; Murphy?), and then the walk through the streets back to the house. Around 4pm we were back and no one seemed surprised except me.


The only sure ways to tell time here seem to be morning, afternoon, evening, yesterday, today and tomorrow. Other than that it seems patience and a good book are in order. Any suggestions on the latter?

A day in the life

So life, what's it like in a new country. Well here's a taste of my daily routine.

I get up fairly early, eat breakfast and then head off to work. Work is Monday to Friday so that hasn't changed. I can get to work by mini bus (an interesting method of travel which I have yet to figure out on my own) or walk. I prefer to walk. The roads don't change.



The office is in a different district of town about 20 minutes from where I am living. After walking up and down the hills of La Paz, dodging min busses, cars and motorcycles I finally get to the office. There, its pretty much like working in a small office. The office is in a converted house so it can get a bit cozy sometimes but it's good.

At about noon its time for lunch. Everyone heads home for lunch so its back to dodging cars. Once I'm back at the house the family usually eats together. The family is the centre of Bolivian life so everyone poors out into the streets in the middle of the day to get home; and then back to work after the midday meal. Once we've eaten the main meal of the day it's back to the office and back to work. Work ends in the early evening and then its home or sometimes to a gym.

While walking up and down the hills of La Paz with minimal oxygen is somewhat of a workout, I've learned I'm a bit of a masacist so I joined a local gym with one of the people at the office. Spinning is big here but I prefer running (not safe on the streets), so I use the treadmill.

Once I've thouroughly exhausted myself its back home to crash and then start all over again. The weekends are for catching up on sleep, cleaning and wondering the markets. Its a very busy schedule and very different from the one I usually keep in Canada. Its almost a month since I arrived and I'm still trying to get my head around how different a two cities can be. People, eat, sleep, work, shop, play, travel but they do it so differently.

How to get along at a Bolivian Wedding

After three weeks I feel like I'm starting to get into the rythm of things here; well sort of. This weekend I went to my first party. It was a wedding and everything I've heard about latin weddings turned out to be true along with a few surprises.

Getting ready for the wedding started out just like it does back home. You have to choose what you're going to wear. This is very important! Shoe shopping of course and down here they have shoes in my size (33 which is about a size 3 back home. Yes I have very small feet. So I found shoes that were very difficult to walk in and entirely appropriate and went with my outfit. Next the gift. I was told by my host family not to worry because this can be bought at the door. I was very confused. In Canada the couple registers at a store and then you go and by a gift off the registry list. Not here. There are litterally stores selling things right outside the hall where the reception is being held. So you buy your gift, the shop keeper wraps it for you and you go inside where the somewhat stunned couple and their wedding party are all wearing pendants of a bride and groom in a chapel and are covered in confetti. You are introduced to the entire wedding party (a kiss on the cheek and congratulations) and then you are shown to a table.

Now lets talk about the alcohol. Well, its not just at the table. The drinks are purchased; I think. There is of course beer, liquor and punches that will punch you back if you're not careful. There is no water unless you bring it yourself. You can toast to whaterever you like, within reason and you don't have to wait for the food to come to start drinking. Once the dancing starts don't think you are out of the woods. They bring shots around on the dance floor and if you even look like you might be over the age of about 14 you are expected to drink them. People also bring cups and bottls of beer and punch out and offer them to complete strangers such as myself and then thank you for drinking with them.

Now, onto dancing. Everybody dances. Every body. I was aware of this before I went but I didn't realize that on the first beat the chairs would be pushed back from the tables and by about the 6th beat of the music the dance floor would be almost full. Mother's bring their babies on to the floor and if you can walk you dance. That seems to be the rule. I have to admit I was a little nervous before I went because I have zero latin dancing skills. I didn't have to. There were a few couples who could dance but it was pretty much like a high school dance. Most people had more rythm skills though. If you can step side to side and clap then you're ok (not to be confused with western line dancing).

To sum up, loud music, lots and lots of alcohol, dancing and go with the flow. If you follow those rules, you'll be good at a Bolivian wedding.

Cars and Zebras and Firecrackers Oh My!

One of the first things that strikes you when you wake up dazed and confused in your hotel room on the Prada (the main drag down the centre of La Paz) in the middle of the day after you plane landed at 5:30 in the morning for some unknown reason, is that there is a lot of traffic. This does not go away. Ok well maybe theres a few minutes in the middle of the night say around 3am where theres a bit of a lul, but other than that its pretty constant. And its not just engines, its horns and whistles too. You don't hear any screaching tires, or little voice telling you how many seconds you have to cross the street or a bird telling you where the side walk is if you are visually impaired. The traffic sounds are different. So are the rules. Here is what I have discerned so far (I do not take any responsibility for any harm caused to any person as a result of following these rules, they are only my observations and all laws should be followed).





1. Cars have the right of way. If you are a pedestrian watch out! Running is good although difficult since the streets are mostly cobble stone and not paved so be careful.





2.Honking is a perfectly acceptable way for a motorist to say, "I'm here and coming through". It's not always someone being nasty saying "Get out of my way".





3.If you are going to drive down here, and I strongly recommend you leave that to the locals because seriously, you don't stand a chance, be aggressive. No one will give you an inch. Well maybe an inch but that's about it, don't expect any more.





4. If you do happen to have an accident it is perfectly acceptible to spend any number of minutes yelling at the person you had an accident with while blocking the road to other traffic. Most cars down here have dents and scrapes so expect this to happen. Also make sure your car has good shock absorbers because you will need it. Like I said above, no paved roads (except the autopista but that is really bumpy too).





5. Stopping anywhere seems to be ok, even if it says don't stop here. I have only seen one boot on a car and many more parked in no parking zones.





6. If it seems like chaos it probably is; but then there is a physics rule that explains chaos I'm just not sure what it is so refer to that when you get lost and you should be ok. I'm pretty sure the guys above are part of that chaos theory since the last time I checked Zebras weren't native to the Andean region.





Oh and one last thing. If there is a march or a strike of some kind don't even try to get a mini bus, taxi or drive. It's pointless. You are better off joining the march. The police will even clear a path for you.

Soccer Time

If you're in South America you gotta talk about soccer or footbol as it’s called down here.

So, I went to a game on Sunday and it was fun. Because I am staying with a family that supports the local team called “the Strongest” I am now a fan of the club too. Here are the essentials: Colours are yellow and black, mascot is a tiger and the chant is “Tigre” (pronounced "teegray"). Here’s how it works. You arrive at the stadium and buy your ticket, regular price 20 bolivianos (about $3) and then you find your seat in the open seating section. Before heading out make sure you are not wearing the visiting team colours. If your are, change. If you’re lucky your seat is clean if not bring something to sit on or you can buy a square piece of styrofoam for about 1 boliviano. You will want to sit up a bit because the banners that are hung on the fence around the stadium may block your view of the action.
Once you’re inside the stadium don’t worry if there is already a game going on it may not be the one your team is playing. Be patient and wait. Everything is on Bolivian time here. Take a look at one end of the stadium; you will see the fan club jumping up and down, chanting and singing to a drummer and trumpet player. They will not stop for the entire game by the way so if it annoys you don’t bother. There are riot police at all the entrance and exits but even if the occasional smoke bomb is thrown they won’t do anything its really only for out of control crazy stuff.

If you`re hungry, don`t worry there is lots of food being sold. Ice cream is cheap and there are fries, cotton candy, even tissues to wipe your hands with. Sandwiches are also available but best bought at the concession to avoid getting something that has been out in the sun for a while.
When your team comes on to the pitch cheer, when the visiting team comes out whistle (this is like booing), or if you can’t whistle don’t do anything. If this is your first time at a footbol match in South America follow the locals during the match. If a player makes a dumb move they will probably whistle at him. If he makes a good play then it will be cheers and claps. If it’s a goal, cheer and shout and stand up and chant the team name.

So enjoy football South American style.

So far I've flown from one end of the world to the other both figuratively and almost literally, adjusted to 3800 metres difference in altitude and started to speak another language full time. My host family has embraced me whole heartedly and i got to shop in my first real market(I'll save that for another post, its an experience in itself). I'm starting to think I might make it through even if the adrenaline rush is wearing off.

The first real cultural thing I got to do this week was to go to a birthday party for 2 year old twin boys. The party was a family event and the grandparents, most of the aunts and uncles and the cousins were all there. The presents didn't seem to be the big event, in fact they weren't even openned at the party. That might be because the boys were only 2 years old and were more interested in the Thomas the Train piñata than anything else. It was more about celebrating family and a birhtday than anything else. There were two cakes, which the boys bit into before they were cut up and served, (they were expected to do this). The adults each made a speach saying what they were thankful for and their hopes for the twins. There was lots of candy of course and by the end of the evening all the kids were very hyper and ready to annoy their parents when they got home. So if your going to have a party Bolivian style it doesn't seem to be about the gifts it seems to be about getting together and having fun.