The next stop on my travels around the country was Caranavi. This is a medium, well let´s say large town (Bolivian relativity theory), in what is called the Yungas; a large fruit and vegetable producing area north of La Paz, on the way to Rurenabaque.
I had tried to get there twice before but due to lack of funds the first time and then a blockade that turned violent on pretty much the only road leading in and out of the area the second time (I love Bolivia), it just didn´t happen. But this time I finally made it; loaded my self onto the bus and headed out.
Now, I had been warned the road was not good. The fact that there were fatal accidents on a weekly basis and it´s on pretty much all the lists of the deadliest roads in the world should have tipped me off that it would not be a pleasant jaunt to a quaint little village. But I decided I what the heck, I want to go. Just a warning, if you get car sick at all, give this one a pass.
It is 4 – 7 hours of dirt road that doesn´t have a straight stretch longer than about 100 metres. I especially like the fact that it is a two way highway that is only wide enough in many places fo
r one vehicle. Backing up a bus or a large transport truck definitely takes some skill around the blind corners. It is mountain on one side and a sheer drop down to the river on the other.
I had tried to get there twice before but due to lack of funds the first time and then a blockade that turned violent on pretty much the only road leading in and out of the area the second time (I love Bolivia), it just didn´t happen. But this time I finally made it; loaded my self onto the bus and headed out.
Now, I had been warned the road was not good. The fact that there were fatal accidents on a weekly basis and it´s on pretty much all the lists of the deadliest roads in the world should have tipped me off that it would not be a pleasant jaunt to a quaint little village. But I decided I what the heck, I want to go. Just a warning, if you get car sick at all, give this one a pass.
It is 4 – 7 hours of dirt road that doesn´t have a straight stretch longer than about 100 metres. I especially like the fact that it is a two way highway that is only wide enough in many places fo
r one vehicle. Backing up a bus or a large transport truck definitely takes some skill around the blind corners. It is mountain on one side and a sheer drop down to the river on the other. As you go along you will see houses that seem to have no access road, people get off and take trails that lead into nowhere and there are one street villages that all seem to have livestock wondering the streets. If you´re lucky, your bus will drive into the side of an overhang and everyone will have to get out and discuss the best way to extricate the group from the situation while the poor driver has to endure the shameful tongue lashing. My recommendation, spend the extra few dollars and take a taxi but get a front seat.
Along the way you will see kids swimming in the river. It looks really tempting as you get a mouth full of dust from the road. I arrived with half of it in my lungs, half on my shoes and another other half in my hair and on my face (yes I know that´s more than 1/1 and I´m pretty sure there is more than a full road of dirt with the amount of dust kicked up).
Coffee in Caranavi is supposed to be amongst the best in the country and there is also chocolate, mmmmmmm chocolate. I personally recommend the yucca rellenos; they are fist sized balls of gooey yucca dough with a stew kind of mixture in the middle. Not bad, just be sure the place you buy it from is clean. The region is tropical so pack light and bring water.
Caranavi and Coroico (about 2 hours away) are great places to visit if you are adventurous (bungy jumping anyone?) and want a different atmosphere from La Paz. Just be prepared for some bugs and bumps.
Along the way you will see kids swimming in the river. It looks really tempting as you get a mouth full of dust from the road. I arrived with half of it in my lungs, half on my shoes and another other half in my hair and on my face (yes I know that´s more than 1/1 and I´m pretty sure there is more than a full road of dirt with the amount of dust kicked up).
Coffee in Caranavi is supposed to be amongst the best in the country and there is also chocolate, mmmmmmm chocolate. I personally recommend the yucca rellenos; they are fist sized balls of gooey yucca dough with a stew kind of mixture in the middle. Not bad, just be sure the place you buy it from is clean. The region is tropical so pack light and bring water.
Caranavi and Coroico (about 2 hours away) are great places to visit if you are adventurous (bungy jumping anyone?) and want a different atmosphere from La Paz. Just be prepared for some bugs and bumps.
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