Sometimes when travelling things don´t always go as planned; in fact I´ve never been on a trip where everything has gone as planned. This time is no exception. Over the last few weeks I have travelled to various different regional offices in various different parts of the country. Traveling in Bolivia is, well, an adventure. Some more interesting and fun than others.
Santa Cruz, my recommendation: a must see. Cruceños are very different from Paceños and so is their city. Situated in the tropical area of Bolivia to get there you take an overnight bus ride. After a few stops in the altiplno region and a stuttering sleep as you pass the short grass and grazing cattle of that region the sun wakes you up to a spectacular view of lush, dense jungle that seems absolutely impenetrable.
Once in a while you pass small towns with ramshackle houses, livestock penned in or tethered close by and a dirt road leading into the impassible mangle of shrubbery and palm trees. To me it seems incredible that people can live in such conditions but then I didn´t know how I would make it through almost 6 months in La Paz when I first arrived.
As you get closer to the city of Santa Cruz you see more concrete buildings and warehouses that mark it as the industrial capital of the country. The city seems shorter coming from the mountains and building of La Paz.
As you step out of the bus the difference in the atmosphere really hits you. If the condensation on the windows of the bus wasn´t a tip off, the short sleeves, relaxed atmosphere of the people and the heavy air all signal tropical. The buildings show the wear of humidity as you drive through the city. It looks like South America.
In the main square, 24 de septiembre, (yes they love to name things after dates here), there are men selling coffee out of thermoses (not bad actually), and benches to sit on and relax in the mid afternoon heat under the shade of palm trees. The government buildings have been restored to their colonial splendor and at night are strategically lit to be the pride of the city.
The main park, in the first ring (kind of like Paris where everything is built out from the centre), has a decent fountain display set to music and local kids use it as a rehearsal space for breakdancing. It is also a popular place for couples to take a romantic walk.
If you´re in the mood for shopping there are some good stores for cloths and jewelry. As the fashion capital of Bolivia Santa Cruz does have something to offer here. You can also have your picture taken with an alligator skin and buy some good quality leather goods. If you are into food there is fish and rice and yuka. I also recommend cuñape which is cheese and yuka flour pastry; crispy on the outside and chewy, gooey, mmm, mmm , mmm on the inside (yes this vegan loves cheese).
Just a word of warning, if you are a red head be prepared to get bothered by the guys. And if you´re wondering why I don´t have any pictures of the dense jungle or ramshackle towns, stay tuned for part 3.
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